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    Rust Rust Concept: Lever-Action Rifle

    April 05, 2020

    Rust Rust Concept: Lever-Action Rifle

    Rust Concept: Lever-Action Rifle

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 12:39 PM PDT

    Make these refinable for a good amount of lowgrade. 75 lowgrade per barrel. good for solos.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:06 AM PDT

    haha

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 10:41 AM PDT

    Made a simple wallpaper a while back and decided to share! No watermarks of course, because that would ruin it.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 03:18 PM PDT

    He's not wrong...

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 12:43 PM PDT

    Has to be true

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 04:49 PM PDT

    Took him a while to figure it out, but my mate finally got a farm going, it's beautiful!

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 06:11 AM PDT

    This is how all of us be looking during quarantine.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:30 PM PDT

    Idk if this has been made already

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 04:15 PM PDT

    Got bored and recreated one of the gates from dont starve together in Rust

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 01:55 PM PDT

    When you disrespect people on PVE/PVP servers

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 11:01 AM PDT

    How is it okay that people do oil right 15minutes into the wipe?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 01:16 PM PDT

    3 player server cap,they still manage to do it in the first 30 mins of the server wiping,shouldn't this be hotfixed? Why is this even a thing?

    submitted by /u/StandardStyle2
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    My genetically modified snow biome hemp farm. It took 24 hours for me to get to the point that it can produce cloth for us.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 07:21 AM PDT

    My friend having a hangover in rust

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 08:19 AM PDT

    This can’t supply enough water for four sprinklers (vanilla)

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 06:16 PM PDT

    When someone asks to trade you 10k sulfur for a AK

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 02:24 PM PDT

    I just stopped an attempted offline raid by getting a quad kill with an MGL... my heart has never beaten this fast in my life

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:33 PM PDT

    Farming 2.0 Advice to fellow farmers.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 03:09 PM PDT

    Farming 2.0 Advice

    Over the past few days I have been experimenting and trying out the new farming 2.0 introduced on Thursday 2nd April 2020. I have found out a few very interesting and useful things that I hope can benefit fellow farmers. I understand its a lot of info but if you want to farm its worth the read. Please remember this is not a guide just what I have found out from playing around for a few hours, stats and advice will change as the system is tweaked but when it is stable I will give another post or a video to explain a good farming set up.

    Set up

    You will need lots and lots of larger or small planters. I recommend large planters as they take up almost exactly 1 square foundation so you can fit 4 very nicely in a 2x2. You can walk on them so there is no real need to have the small variants unless you are trying to have a super compact farm. You can buy a large planter from the bandit camp for 30 scrap however you can also find their BP in barrels and primitive crates however each requires 2 tarp which is often hard to come across unless you go boating. Personally I recommend buying them from bandit.

    Both large and small water catchers cannot supply enough water to run sprinklers continuously. The large water catcher can just about run 2 continuously however any more and you are draining more water than you are consuming. I recommend having a few water catchers somewhere on your base or compound feeding into each other and then into a water barrel inside your base. This ensures that no one can steal your water if they climb on your roof as the catchers almost always remain empty unless your barrel inside is full. As a rule of thumb I would say 1 barrel for every 4-5 sprinklers and at least 2 large water catchers for every 1 barrel. This does scale up quite quickly and is just due to how slowly the water catchers collect water. Their rates of collection seems to be all over the place so is hard to pinpoint. However one important note is that a small water catcher can only supply 6 water ( similar to how electricity works ) and can therefore only supply a maximum of 3 sprinklers. The barrel and large catcher both can supply 10 water meaning 5 sprinklers max. Personally I like to place my sprinklers above the planters however this is personal preference and what suits your base but you can place them on adjacent walls or on the ground and there is no difference ( also sidenote but sprinklers pretty quickly put out fire from incendiary rockets, fire arrows etc so maybe worth having one in your TC room incase of raid? )

    In terms of how many sprinklers per planter you can have 1 sprinkler in the middle of 4 large planters and it works some of the time. The placement I found needs to be more or less perfect otherwise some of the planters wont get water however if done correctly all 4 planters will get roughly ¼ of the water that a planter with 1 sprinkler would get. Sprinklers also stack so 2 sprinklers for 1 planter will give roughly double the water intake. The amount of water intake you have is dependant on your needs.

    The pump allows for you to control the flow of water like a switch. Also if powered it allows for water to be moved "uphill". If the source of water if higher than the sprinkler you do not need one if it is the other way around you do. The hose itself can go to the sun and back and not need a pump as long as the source of water is higher than the switch.

    I haven't seen a real use for the water splitter at the moment but let me know if you find one.

    https://www.reddit.com/r/playrust/comments/fqav4t/automatic_watering_system_for_farming_20_set_and/flpi9x6/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

    Here is a link to a very good electricity set up for a "set and forget" sprinkler system. I tried it out and it works pretty well most of the time however if you have multiple plants it can get complicated but I suggest just sticking to one crop.

    For lighting you without a doubt need ceiling lights. The sun only provides light for half the time and therefore your growth will be approximately half that of ceiling lights. You need 1 ceiling light per large planter if you place it in the above centre of the planter ( only 1 wall high ) Make sure to have your farm ceiling lights on a different circuit to your main lights as these ones need to be on 24/7 and never turn off.

    A composter is a must as well as a reliable source of horse dung. I had a set up on my server of a 1x2 with 2 troughs and therefore 4 horses inside. This produced around 8-12 horse dung per hour. Each horse dung produces 5 fertiliser. Do not put anything else inside the composter unless it is at least going to produce more than 1 fertiliser ( https://rustlabs.com/item/composter#tab=composter;sort=1,1,0 ). At the moment if you put in 1 plant fibre the game takes it away and gives you nothing back as it returns to you 0.1 fertiliser which it then rounds down to 0. Keep them until you have enough then put them in. The composter takes roughly 5 minutes to produce fertiliser for 1 item and does them one at a time so be patient.

    Conditions

    Soil conditions are the easiest. The planter has a UI, just press and open and place in some fertiliser. The plants take them as and when they need them so just add a stack of fertiliser to each planter and that should last a while. Just ensure that you keep it topped up and look at the plant UI to ensure soil quality is 100%.

    Temperature is a tricky one as its the only condition that you can't really control… You obviously can control it by building in a certain location but once you've planted a crop its temperature is up to the rust gods. However it is relatively straight forward to solve and try and circumvent. If you build in the mountains and snow it will be cold. If you build in the desert it will be hot. Very straight forward. The best place to build if you know you are going to be a farmer is in the temperate biome near a river for water. The temperature will almost never be 100% but it can get close. It also gets colder at night and can get so cold in the snow biome at night that many plants can instantly die. You can slightly remedy this by having lots of BBQs and campfires around your plants but this is not very efficient as it takes way too much wood to make your plants get warmer but may be a solution for those of you who want to build in the snow biome

    Water saturation is slightly more complicated but relatively straight forward. Each planter has a water capacity of 9000ml. Water is only used up when plants are planed there and each plant says how much it uses per minute on its UI. Depending on a plants hardiness will depend on how much water you want to add to the planters but as a rule of thumb between 6000 and 8000ml is best in my experience. You want to keep the plants at 100% water saturation. Too low and this will drop and too high this will also drop. The best way to quickly increase the saturation of the planters is by using a water bucket or water container from a river or barrel and splash it over the planter. Then looking at it should display how much water is has in it. Get each one above 6000ml and then turn on your sprinklers to fine tune your levels to ensure 100% for all plants. Also take into account if you have the same sprinkler system for all of your planters with different plants in they may require different levels of water and have different uptakes so I recommend having either only 1 type of plant or having separately controllable sprinkler systems for each type of plant. In my experience pumpkins are very thirsty whereas corn is not and therefore if you have them all on one sprinkler loop and try and turn it on you will have an unbalance of water levels due to the pumpkins needing more than the corn.

    Stages

    There are 6 stages to the plants growth. Seedling, Sapling, Crossbreed, Mature, Fruiting, Ripe and then Dying. It is impossible to say how long each stage lasts but there is a % completion with the plant UI that will tell you. Its time will depend on what genetics as well as conditions.

    In the seedling stage you can view the UI by looking at the plant with an empty hand ( If you have a weapon in hand you cannot view the UI ) View the genetics as well as condition.

    The Sapling phase is the same as the seedling stage and is not that interesting.

    The Crossbreeding stage is where genetics get into this but I will leave that for later as it gets quite complicated. There is however a cool animation that plays when they enter this stage.

    The mature stage is where the plants begin to increase their yield drastically you can harvest hemp in this stage however they will default to 5 and increase from there so is not advisable.

    The fruiting stage is when you can harvest the 3 edible plants

    The ripe stage is not very interesting it is just when the plants have their maximum yield. This stage appears to last for a while however if you do not harvest them they will die so make sure to pay attention.

    The dying stage is as you would guess just what it sounds like. The plant cannot be harvested for any fruit or cloth and there is an empty husk of a plant left behind. This can be picked up for 1 plant fibre. This can be used to make fertiliser. When a plant is harvested it will immediately transition into its dead phase. If not harvested in this time the plant will just disappear.

    Genetics

    This is the section you've all been waiting for. Its complicated and It doesn't make a lot of sense right now but I have a working theory which will be updated as and when I find out more.

    There are good, bad and "null" genes. Good are green. Bad are red. There are 6 gene "slots" each of which can have any gene in it. There are 5 types of genes.

    G for increased growth rate. This is always green and from what I have seen so far will produce more or less exactly the same growth rate in a specific type of plant.

    Y for increased yield. This is also always green and again from what I have seen 1 Y gene increased the yield by some set amount ( Unknown how much now but it seems to be roughly consistent ).

    H for increased hardiness. This means the plant is more resilient to conditions. This gene will always be green. The potato is naturally more resilient and can withstand bigger extremes in conditions however this gene should only be bred for if you want your plant to grow better in temperature as the other conditions you have complete control over and therefore is not worth wasting a gene spot for.

    W is for increased water intake. This is always red and is the only true negative gene. From a few hours of experimenting it appears that pumpkins tend to have this gene more than the others and corn have this gene a lot less although this is based on a relatively small sample size. The more of this gene you have the more water your plant will need.

    X is an empty gene slot. It will always be red. Although technically not a negative gene it means that another gene cannot be here. They came in handy though when I was experimenting as it allowed for control experiments as well as to eliminate other variables.

    The more of a gene you have the bigger its effect will be. For example if you have a plant with 1 Growth gene it may have a 2x multiplier whereas a plant with 6 Growth genes may have a 12x multiplier. Although these numbers may not be true the principle is the same. The more of a gene you have the better ( or worse ) said characteristic will be.

    When it comes to cross breeding what I have found is very very tenuous and always seems to change. I spent a while trying to figure this out but it makes very little sense. My working theory at the moment is that red genes have a weighting of around 2 and green genes have a weighting of around 1. This means that if you want to replace a red gene with a green gene you need to have at least 2 or more green genes around ( anywhere in the planter that is directly adjacent hence I recommend putting the plant you are trying to rewrite in the middle to give it a higher chance ) it to override and rewrite the gene. After the crossbreeding stage is done the new genetics will appear as 2 lines with various lines coming from it and black genes. The black genes are those that have been overwritten and are now useless. A gene from slot 1 can only be overwritten by another gene from slot 1. This is very tricky but from what I have played around with so far it is reasonably easy to get a very good plant if you take clippings from your plants with the highest yield and plant them next time. It is almost identical to survival of the fittest. Those with a low yield "die" and get harvested and those with a higher yield "survive" and reproduce by being the clones for the next harvest.

    Also it is important to remember that seeds will produce random genetics whereas clones will produce identical genetics to that of its parent ( unless planted in the ground in which for some reason it gets slightly randomised. I don't know if this is a bug or a feature but avoid planting in ground ) Hemp plants do not produce seeds hence you will need to take clippings from half of your crop ( each hemp plant clipping produces 2 identical clones ) to continue to grow. Unless of course you have seeds in which case plant them. Harvesting potatoes gives seeds and eating corn and pumpkins also gives seeds. You can take clippings from all pants to produce 2 identical clones in which their genetic information will be displayed.

    Much is still unknown about this and I will try my best to update this post as and when I find out new bits of information.

    Keep farming!

    submitted by /u/Ortovox
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    Im about to get Rust for the first time.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 03:52 PM PDT

    I've heard a lot about this game and I really want to try to play it and get good at it, what are some tips for a begginer like me?

    submitted by /u/Yeeto_that_cheeto
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    Please fix itemskins.0 ... I literally can't play the game anymore because of this shit

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:56 PM PDT

    I don't know if i should be proud or not....

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 04:21 PM PDT

    How bad is the layout of the radtowns in the server you are playing right now?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 04:29 PM PDT

    Just curious to see if just i have bad luck with map seeds.

    View Poll

    submitted by /u/leozinhi
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    My understanding is done doesn't have a recycler.... So wtf is that?? And how do I get to it.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:57 PM PDT

    Make offline raids more expensive to prevent servers from dying so fast.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 12:07 PM PDT

    Implement a system that makes the HP of everything in the base go up 5 times or so when noone is online that has TC. You may say people will just go off when they start getting raided? To counter this problem make the HP go up half an hour after the last member has gone off. Or one more way would be to make it with a Raidblock system that modded servers use (basically if the base is raidblocked the HP buff wont happen if people log off). To make it up for those people who like raiding make online raids more viable. How would we do this you may ask? Again the raidblock system, basically if the base is raidblocked, make it so that every building block that is placed starts at 1HP and make it so it heals itself over time (some modded server have this already) it would make online raids fun again.

    submitted by /u/KoVaCeViC_99
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